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Click the picture on the box above to see the full-size image.


Revell-Monogram '69 Dodge Charger #2546


Revell-Monogram Pro Modeler '69 Dodge Charger R/T #5937 (Make sure this is the re-issued version, as the first issue's body was designed incorrectly).

NOTE: Kit #2546 does not contain the interior rollbar. You will have to create your own rollbar if this kit is used.

Correct American Racing Vector Rims from:

AMT/Ertl Eckler Corvette #8053


Older AMT kit #3102.

Both kits are discontinued. Watch for kits on eBay or at retailers that sell discontinued kits.
If the Eckler Corvette model cannot be found, wheels and tires from the AMT/Ertl General Lee kit will work, . They are slightly less accurate, but will look fine if detailed properly.
Wheel Preparation:
Testors #1260 Dull Cote

Testors #2937 Gray Primer

Testors #1628 Competition Orange

Tamiya #TS-46 Light Sand (excellent shade of tan)
Testors #1249 Flat Black (if preferred)

Testors #1261 Gloss Cote
Testors Model Master #2732 Chrysler Engine Red

Turn Signals:
Testors Model Master #2723 Turn Signal Amber

Small Details:
Testors #1124 Green
Testors #1145 Gloss White
Testors #1146 Silver
Testors #1147 Gloss Black
Testors #1149 Flat Black
Small Parts:
Testors #2546C Silver
Testors #2547C Black
Testors #2549C Flat Black
Testors Model Master #8872C Precision Cement For Plastic Models
-Exacto Knife w/#11 blade (sharp for trimming Bare Metal chrome foil)
-Pocket or hobby knife for scraping and trimming small parts
-Paint brushes for bottle paints
-Round tip toothpics for painting small details
-1 Sheet of Bare Metal brand Chrome Foil
-1 sheet of 240-grit sandpaper
-1 sheet of 600-grit sandpaper
-1 sheet of .020" Evergreen brand Styrene
-1 package of 3/32" Styrene Tubing
-1 pushbar template from the January 2002 Scale Auto Magazine (right click here, and click on "save target as" to download the template) (Click here for pushbar instructions)
-Black electrical tape (for use as rollbar "padding"). I used tape that was 11/16" wide.
-White epoxy putty for plastic models (optional; for filling side markers).
-1/8" diameter solid aluminum rod, at least 6" long (for rollbar, if using kit #2546).
-Silicone adhesive (for securing rollbar, if using kit #2546).


Spray vector rims with Dull Cote. Let dry thoroughly.


Using a toothpick, carefully paint the areas in between the spokes flat black, as well as the wheel centers. Take lots of time to avoid a sloppy job.

When assembling the wheels, use the wheel backs and tires provided with the Eckler Corvette kit. Paint the inside of the wheel backs black, as they show through the slots in the rim.

Sand the wheel well chrome smooth. I used the edge of a pocket knife blade to scrape the main excess, then finished with 600-grit sandpaper.

Sand the roof texture smooth, beginning with 240-grit and finishing with 600-grit sandpaper. I began the process by carefully scraping the "seams" with the edge of a pocket knife to flatten them.
Use white epoxy putty for plastic models to fill in side marker lights on fenders. Also fill back-up light holes in rear valance. Sand filled areas smooth.

Apply a coat of gray primer to the Body, Hood, Radiator Core Support (part No. 35), Header Panel (part No. 5), Front Valance (part No. 3) and Rear Panel & Valance (part No. 4).

After drying, sand any necessary areas again. Apply a second light coat of primer.

Apply two coats of Competition Orange, letting the paint dry thoroughly between coats. If necessary, after the first coat, go over the body VERY lightly with 600-grit paper to even out any "orange peel." Also spray the Radiator Core Support (part No. 35), Header Panel (part No. 5), Front Valance (part No. 3) and Rear Panel & Valance (part No. 4) Competition Orange.
To detail the taillight panel, paint above the bumper line flat black. When dry, paint the chrome strip along the top edge silver.
After all paint is dry, spray Testors Gloss Cote on body, hood, front valance and rear panel. Gloss Cote over the flat black on the rear panel will give it a "satin" look.
When paint has dried completely, apply Bare Metal chrome foil to the trim areas. Follow the directions on the package. With some patience, it produces impressive results.

Paint underside of roof to match interior color, and paint the underside of the hood and front inner fenders gloss black. Paint both sides of the inner fenders (the "under-hood" side and the outside, as seen when looking into the wheel well.
Carefully cut the "walrus teeth" off from either side of the front license plate holder on the front bumper/grille (part No. 7). Smooth out the area where they were cut, and paint the scars silver (or cover with Bare Metal foil).

To paint grille inserts flat black, first I masked the edges with scotch tape, so the paint marker would only touch the proper parts (see figure a).

Paint should cover the entire grille surface, including the "cracks" around the edges (see figure b).

Optional: Before paint dries, use a toothpick to clean paint off of grille trim and Charger emblem (see figure c).

ASSEMBLY NOTE: When attaching front bumper to body later, the bumper should be pushed back into the opening until no chrome can be seen from the side of the car (except for the side of the bumper) (see figure d). Photos on the model box (kit #2546) are incorrect.

Figure a:

Figure b:

Figure c:

Figure d:

Trace two side pieces from template (right-click here and "save target as" to download) onto sheet of styrene and carefully cut them out.

Cut two pieces of styrene tubing to length indicated on template and glue them to one side piece using the circles on the template as a guide. Make sure tubing is perpendicular to the side piece (to avoid a crooked assembly).

When glue is completely cured, glue the other side piece to the ends of the tubing, making sure assembly is straight.
Cut two notches in the bottom of the Radiator Core Support (part No. 35). The notches should be about 3/16" long and about 1/16" wide (see figure e). This will provide clearance for the pushbar when mounting it to the frame later (see figure f).

Figure e:

Figure f:

Assemble per kit instructions, with the following modifications:
Grind the top of the carburetor (part No. 44) and the underside of the air cleaner (part No. 61) to provide hood clearance (engine may be slightly too tall if this is not done).

Paint air cleaner silver or black, depending on preference (silver was most often used on the show), "Magnum" decal also optional.

Assemble per kit instructions, with the following modifications:
Interior note: Part No. 86 (Interior Brace) does not need to be installed on this model. It serves no purpose.

Spray all interior pieces (floor, console, dashboard top, dashboard, steering wheel, steering column, seats, seat backs, headrests and door panels) light sand. (Flat black is also an option, but tan is the "official" General Lee interior color).
When dry, spray seats, dashboard, console, door panels, steering wheel and steering column with gloss cote for a vinyl appearance.


Apply decals 8 & 9 (speedometer & tachometer) according to instructions. Paint black and silver details on instrument panel. Use Bare Metal foil on chrome trim along door panels and trim around armrests. Paint window cranks, steering wheel sections, console tray and other details silver, using a toothpick.

Option: Install CB radio under the passenger side of the dash. The one pictured below is from a "Daisy's Jeep" kit.

Option: If you choose to have a black interior, a nice touch is a woodgrain console. On the interior pictured below, I used vinyl woodgrain stickers that came with a computer desk.

Method 1: Trim the fire extinguisher from the rollbar included with the Pro Modeler Charger kit. Paint rollbar flat black.

Method 2: Bend a piece of 1/8" diameter solid aluminum rod (available at hobby stores) into shape, according to rollbar template below. Cut a plastic section off one of the part "trees" (they are approximately the same diameter as the aluminum rod) to make a diagonal brace. Fasten brace using silicone adhesive.

Rollbar Template


Trim a piece of black electrical tape to about 1/2" wide and apply it to the driver's side of the rollbar, about 1/4" from the top. Roll tape tightly around the bar 2 or 3 times to simulate leather padding. Repeat for the passenger side, applying tape just below where the cross brace attaches. Roll a third, full-width (11/16") piece around the cross brace, off-center toward passenger side (see rollbar template above).


Attach firewall, console, rear seat and door panels to interior floor, per kit instructions, but do not install front seats.

To install rollbar:

Method 1 (If using Pro Modeler kit with plastic rollbar only):
Locate the "shackles" (Parts No. 121) that come with the Pro Modeler Charger. Attach each one to the floor behind the front seats, and up against the outer "ridge" in the floor. This will allow a "base" for the Rollbar. Trim the pegs off the bottom of the Rollbar (leaving the flat round bases). Cement the Rollbar to the blocks.

Method 2 (If using aluminum constructed rollbar only): Paint the bottom of each leg of the rollbar black (or white, if using a black interior), and set the rollbar in place (as close to the front of the rear seat as possible) while paint is still wet. This will leave marks where the legs will go. Using a 7/64" drill bit, drill holes through the floor on your two marks (see figure g). Using a hobby knife, open holes a little at a time until rollbar legs fit into holes (see figure h).

Remove rollbar and complete interior assembly, placing the front seats as far forward as they will go.

When assembling interior section to chassis, use silicone adhesive on the underside of the interior section, letting adhesive get into rollbar holes. Place rollbar in holes and adhere the interior section to the chassis. This will anchor the rollbar in place.

Figure g:

Figure h (cross brace and padding omitted in photo):

Assemble per kit instructions, with the following modifications:
The following steps need to be done to achieve the proper stance that is legendary with the General Lee.
Trim the pegs off the front spindles (parts No. 69 & 70) and the rear axle housing (part No. 73), leaving the large, flat areas. Wheel backs from the Eckler Corvette will glue directly to the flat areas of the spindles and rear axle.

Build front suspension as per kit instructions, BEFORE PAINTING suspension parts or chassis. Pieces will fit much easier, and this will eliminate having to scrape areas to be cemented. Cover the flat areas of the spindles (where the wheels will be glued) with a piece of tape. After painting the chassis/front suspension assembly, the tape can be removed to expose an unpainted gluing surface (see pic below).


Build rear suspension as per kit instructions, but first, it's a good idea to fix a flaw in the model kit:

Using a 1/16" drill bit, carefully drill new holes in the leaf springs (parts No. 88) about 1/16" toward the FRONT of the car, so when the Rear Axle Housing (part No. 73) is attached, it sits closer to the front of the car (this helps center the rear wheels in the wheel wells) see pic below.

NOTE: The Drive Shaft (part No. 78) will need to be shortened by 1/16" to allow for this adjustment. I simply cut off the peg on the engine end of the drive shaft and shaved the end down to the proper length.


When cementing wheels to the front spindles and rear axle, place model on its side. Scrape plating from wheel backs, where they will contact the spindle/axle. Apply cement generously to wheel back, and work glue repeatedly with the edge of a toothpick until it becomes slightly tacky. Place wheel in position, keeping top of rear wheel barely visible below wheel well, and top of front wheel just hidden above wheel well (see photo below for correct stance). Make sure wheels are centered from front to back in wheel wells. After one side is completely cured, turn model over and repeat for other side.

Correct General Lee stance:

Older model, showing incorrect stance:


For much more accurate, authentic-looking decals, order the "01"s, Confederate Flag, Roof Lettering and Rear License Plate decals from Specify which decals you would like (i.e. Flag, 01s, Rear License Plate). The flag is available in royal blue and navy blue (earlier episode version).

For the "General Lee" roof lettering, I designed the decal on Photoshop with the proper size and font, and took my design to my local sign shop. They printed the design on clear decals.


For the front Confederate Flag license plate decal, I downloaded a picture of the flag from the internet and re-sized it to measure roughly 1/2" wide by 1/4" tall. I printed it on adhesive label paper and covered it with a clear laminating sheet. You can then just cut, peel and stick the decal to the front license plate.


If you are building a replica of the "first episode" Georgia General Lee, that car had a "crossed flags" decal behind the rear window. You can specify this in your order to, and they will include one.