Using a toothpick, carefully paint the areas in between the spokes flat black, as well as the wheel centers. Take lots of time to avoid a sloppy job.

Cut two pieces of styrene tubing to length indicated on template and glue them to one side piece using the circles on the template as a guide. Make sure tubing is perpendicular to the side piece (to avoid a crooked assembly).

Paint air cleaner silver or black, depending on preference (silver was most often used on the show), "Magnum" decal also optional.

Apply decals 8 & 9 (speedometer & tachometer) according to instructions. Paint black and silver details on instrument panel. Use Bare Metal foil on chrome trim along door panels and trim around armrests. Paint window cranks, steering wheel sections, console tray and other details silver, using a toothpick.

Option: Install CB radio under the passenger side of the dash. The one pictured below is from a "Daisy's Jeep" kit.


Option: If you choose to have a black interior, a nice touch is a woodgrain console. On the interior pictured below, I used vinyl woodgrain stickers that came with a computer desk.

Trim a piece of black electrical tape to about 1/2" wide and apply it to the driver's side of the rollbar, about 1/4" from the top. Roll tape tightly around the bar 2 or 3 times to simulate leather padding. Repeat for the passenger side, applying tape just below where the cross brace attaches. Roll a third, full-width (11/16") piece around the cross brace, off-center toward passenger side (see rollbar template above).

Attach firewall, console, rear seat and door panels to interior floor, per kit instructions, but do not install front seats.

To install rollbar:

Method 1 (If using Pro Modeler kit with plastic rollbar only): Locate the "shackles" (Parts No. 121) that come with the Pro Modeler Charger. Attach each one to the floor behind the front seats, and up against the outer "ridge" in the floor. This will allow a "base" for the Rollbar. Trim the pegs off the bottom of the Rollbar (leaving the flat round bases). Cement the Rollbar to the blocks.

Method 2 (If using aluminum constructed rollbar only): Paint the bottom of each leg of the rollbar black (or white, if using a black interior), and set the rollbar in place (as close to the front of the rear seat as possible) while paint is still wet. This will leave marks where the legs will go. Using a 7/64" drill bit, drill holes through the floor on your two marks (see figure g). Using a hobby knife, open holes a little at a time until rollbar legs fit into holes (see figure h).

Remove rollbar and complete interior assembly, placing the front seats as far forward as they will go.

When assembling interior section to chassis, use silicone adhesive on the underside of the interior section, letting adhesive get into rollbar holes. Place rollbar in holes and adhere the interior section to the chassis. This will anchor the rollbar in place.

Figure g:


Figure h (cross brace and padding omitted in photo):

Build front suspension as per kit instructions, BEFORE PAINTING suspension parts or chassis. Pieces will fit much easier, and this will eliminate having to scrape areas to be cemented. Cover the flat areas of the spindles (where the wheels will be glued) with a piece of tape. After painting the chassis/front suspension assembly, the tape can be removed to expose an unpainted gluing surface (see pic below).

Build rear suspension as per kit instructions, but first, it's a good idea to fix a flaw in the model kit:

Using a 1/16" drill bit, carefully drill new holes in the leaf springs (parts No. 88) about 1/16" toward the FRONT of the car, so when the Rear Axle Housing (part No. 73) is attached, it sits closer to the front of the car (this helps center the rear wheels in the wheel wells) see pic below.


NOTE: The Drive Shaft (part No. 78) will need to be shortened by 1/16" to allow for this adjustment. I simply cut off the peg on the engine end of the drive shaft and shaved the end down to the proper length.

When cementing wheels to the front spindles and rear axle, place model on its side. Scrape plating from wheel backs, where they will contact the spindle/axle. Apply cement generously to wheel back, and work glue repeatedly with the edge of a toothpick until it becomes slightly tacky. Place wheel in position, keeping top of rear wheel barely visible below wheel well, and top of front wheel just hidden above wheel well (see photo below for correct stance). Make sure wheels are centered from front to back in wheel wells. After one side is completely cured, turn model over and repeat for other side.

Correct General Lee stance:


Older model, showing incorrect stance:

For the front Confederate Flag license plate decal, I downloaded a picture of the flag from the internet and re-sized it to measure roughly 1/2" wide by 1/4" tall. I printed it on adhesive label paper and covered it with a clear laminating sheet. You can then just cut, peel and stick the decal to the front license plate.